Monday, October 10, 2011

NEW YORK


Henry Schickerling. 1983.

I arrived at JFK in New York City very early on a freezing, bleak January morning  in 1983.


After the sun and summer colors of South Africa and Brazil the cold and grey morning came as quite a shock. Robert fetched me at the airport and I was very thankful for that -I needed to see a friendly  face. The flight was long and I did not sleep very well and felt very groggy and depressed.
We drove to Brooklyn as people were starting to wake up get ready for work. It was a very different scene as a year ago when I arrived in Hartsdale when I came to visit Dale and Lucia.


 This was the New York City and not the suburbs. This was a working class neighborhood and this is where I belonged. I was no millionaire that could afford to live in Westchester.


Robert was born in Brooklyn and he lived there most of his life.
I came to realize that Brooklyn finds it place in your heart after a while .There is a rumor that you can not make it in America, if you were not from Brooklyn - but that morning it was grey and very depressing.


Robert lived in Midwood a very nice and safe neighborhood of Brooklyn .It had a strip mall and the subway was close and it took about 40 minutes into Manhattan. Very convenient.


Rijs Park in the snow.


 
Among the famous people who came from Brooklyn were:- Neil Diamond, George Gershwin, Rita Hayward ,Lena Horne, Jerry Seinfeld, Beverly Sills, Barbara Streisand and even Mae West -- to name a few.


Beverly Sills.


Neil Diamond.


Barbara Streisand.

The first few days Robert helped me to get a Social Security number and then open a bank account .Nothing is easy in New York so this took quite a long time .I would not have known where to start. The next day I had to start work and I took the subway into Manhattan. Robert also took me on a test run the day before.


The subway was heated and with so many people packed together  I had a panic attack and  got off the train. It took me getting off twice again before I got to Manhattan .It went better after that but even today I am rather claustrophobic-a very strange thing to be in a city of almost 8.5 million people and where 800 different languages are spoken.
Rosella was located on 38th street off  7th avenue , in the heart of the garment district of New York.
She was  very attractive and around 40 years old .She was divorced  and had a son of about 14 years old. The son stayed with his father on Long Island to go to school and visited her over the weekend. She had her showroom in Manhattan but the factory, where the clothes were made, was on Long Island. She had a collection of gowns that she sold to specialty stores --  but she also had a lot of private customers.
Those days the garment industry was blue collar and a cut throat business run by Eastern European Jews and Italians.They were very rude , manners were left at the door . They spoke to you if you were dirt. I learned very quickly to forget all the manners  my mother taught me and gave back as good as I got. Rosella was born in Italy so she was not as bad ,but dealing with anybody else was no walk in the park. I learned very quickly that you could not be timid if you wanted to do business ,or work in New York City. You had to set your limits as soon as you met these  people  and when they overstep your boundaries you must pounce- and hard. Then they respected you. If you did not do that they would walk over you.
After the genteel life in South Africa dealing with sophisticated woman buying couture this was another story .Nothing about New York's fashion business was gentle or kind. People would walk over you and there were not time for being polite. In a coffee shop people would walk in and  scream "Give me a coffee with half and half" and wait for it to be handed to them No thanks or if you please.I quickly realized if I did not do the same I would be ignored. One learned very quickly to fend for yourself. 


The Mafia ran the garbage removal in the garment district and every company had to pay them even if the city did remove it .This was part  of doing business in NYC.One day an oily looking guy came to the door and asked for Rosella .When I told him she was in Dallas he told me to tell her Jimmy was there- and asked about her. When I told her this when she called from Dallas - she went ballistic .
"Tell that SOB that I deal with Sal and if he comes near  me again......"
  The next day Jimmy  rocked up again  and when he heard Sal's name, his whole demeanor
 changed and he could not apologize enough.. 
"Please tell the lady I will never bother her again and I apologize".........
What that was all about I don't know. All I know that was Rosella had protection that made Jimmy shake in his pants! This was so far removed from the  life that I was use to in Europe and South Africa. I toughened up very quickly!


Rosella had a lot of Orthodox Jewish customers and they spent a fortune on gowns as they had to have long sleeves and high necks as their religion required. This meant that they had to have the gowns custom made. They were very demanding but wanted very elaborate dresses and did not mind paying if it was what they wanted and after quibbling about the price. The personal shopper that brought them was Martha Lunzer.
Martha was from Budapest originally and she had a big business She had contacts with all the big designers and would take her customers to all the showrooms to buy wholesale. Everybody on Seventh Ave knew her. She did a roaring business with Rosella so I got to know her very well. She was no shrinking violet but we got along well.

Here are some photos of the Garment Center on Seventh Avenue in New York during the 60's.
During that time 60% of all the clothes sold in the USA were manufactured  in New York City .
 20 years later when I arrived it did not change much ,but soon after the unions became so strong that all the production went toe Asia and since then the garment center has slowly but surely disappeared. It is still the center of fashion in New York but on a much smaller scale.













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After about five  months I decided I lived on Robert's neck long enough and started to look for accommodation in Manhattan. The subway was  getting to me. It was filthy, dangerous and full of unsavory characters -- and I was spending almost two hours a day on it .



One morning as I got onto  the subway- very early to find a seat .There were 6 passengers on the bench made for 8. I asked the one guy to move up so that I could fit in. He gave me lip telling me that I was a big boy and that I could not fit in there as well. It was quite something coming from him as he was twice my size!  I did not need to say anything. A nice Italian Mama , that sat across from him screamed at him: " You don't own the goddamn train -he paid as much as you did. Quit lounging ,you are not in your goddamn living room-move up!"She fought this fight for me but I was getting tired of his nonsense.Robert did not work in the city so he did not use the subway during the week .He worked  for the Navy on the Staten Island Base. For him it was very convenient to live in Brooklyn as he was picked up  by a colleague every morning.


New York is not America.It is a melting pot of the world and one was surrounded by people from all walks of life and from every country imaginable. People had few manners and were very rude and fights would start at the drop of a hat. They would spit and blow their noses on the platforms .New York was a violent place in the early '80's but when a crack cocaine epidemic hit the city it became even worse..


Graffiti was all over and the subways cars were covered in it -- inside and outside as well as the platforms and walls of the subway stations. Crime was rampant and to take the subway after dark was not something I felt comfortable with.Rudolph Giuliani  became Mayor in 1994 and  he started to turn the city around , but before that it was a mess.


I started to look around for accommodation in Manhattan.
Eventually I found a  residential hotel on the Upper West Side that I could afford -- The Imperial Court Hotel in a very nice neighborhood . It was on 79th street near  Riverside Drive and between Riverside Park and Central Park. I could not believe my luck. It was two stops from work and walking distance to the Metropolitan Opera as well.


Metropolitan Opera.

At first he showed me a studio, but the view was over the roof of the lobby - so I complained
 (I was learning fast) .He then he showed me a corner studio with windows on both sides on the second floor with a street view, and I grabbed  it .


First thing I did was to go and buy Clorox and alcohol and scrub the bathroom and  kitchenette from floor to ceiling. I threw out the filthy shower curtain and bought my own. I also purchased a big plastic cover for the mattress and  my own bedding. I bribed the cleaning lady to lend me the vacuum cleaner and I cleaned the place as well as I could. With the cross ventilation it was cooler as there were no air conditioning. On a hot evening I just  sat in the park next to the Hudson River until it was dark and I was ready for bed.


Riverside Park and  the Hudson River.

The first night I discover I was not alone in the room. When  I switched on the light to go to the bathroom.I saw a  rat  run across the floor from under my bed into the closet. I stayed on that bed till dawn ,and I did not move. I bought some steel wool the next day and stuffed every hole I could find in the floor and walls. That took care of that.



The hotel was located next to a Orthodox Synagogue and when they had a wedding in the hall the music and dancing went on until 4:00 am. I bought earplugs for that, as well as the ruckus that came from the adjoining rooms.I then realized why this place was affordable. It was welfare hotel that the city paid for . I am sure the money the owner got from me was over and above the amount the city paid him for my room in any case. I could not care - it was central, very convenient and  I could afford it.Even Robert could not believe my luck!
With the holes plugged ,the bathroom clean and my own bed sheets. I started to feel like a my own person again .I even bought a small TV on sale for $45.00. I would rush through the lobby to my room and not look left or right. It took me 10 minutes on the subway to get to work on a good morning. I was very thankful to be in Manhattan  and so close to everything.



Central Park with  the Hudson River and the Upper West Side.

Saturday, October 8, 2011

Farewell to South Africa.


Bye  to South Africa.


Rick,my nephew, and me.
Taken on the last weekend visiting my
family for Christmas on the farm.



The old house- and new house -on the farm Bosbult.





After I spent Christmas with my parents and family on the farm, I went back to Johannesburg where I had a few days left before leaving. Saying goodbye is never easy and specially taking leave of my parents and family were rather traumatic. The morning before I was to return to Johannesburg I sat in the kitchen with my parents and without me knowing tears were running down my face. My parents were very upset and asked me if I am making a mistake.  That was not the reason -All of a sudden I realized that things would never be the same again for me.. Their lives  in South Africa would go on without me. The family will get bigger -there would be grand-kids but I will not be part of it.When I left before it was to study in Europe and I knew I would be back This time I would not come back and it saddened me tremendously.
 I promised myself that I would not leave the USA -- even for a holiday --  until I had my green card.I had not idea how long it would take before I would  see them again.

Georgina is not good at saying goodbye either so we had a private lunch. She gave me a gold signet ring and said I could at least sell it if I needed money in New York.
At lunch she excused herself to make a phone call. When she came back she looked dazed and very strange. I asked her if everything was OK and she said she was fine.. For the rest of the lunch she was very distant and I thought she was just sad the we had to say goodbye .
A week after I started work in New York, she called me and told me that she received  great news that day. She was pregnant - she and Joseph were trying to have a baby for many years. She did not want to tell me  before she told Joseph. They then ask me if I would be godparent to Ingeborg.
I was honored and thrilled for their sake.
Cornelia and Gerhard had arranged a farewell party for me at his house .Although it was a bitter sweet occasion for me  -- it was a wonderful evening. They invited almost everybody I ever met in Johannesburg.



Cornelia, Georgina and Gerhard.



Gerhard in the kitchen.



Me, Cornelia and Wouter.



Cornelia de Villiers and John Tullis.


Some of the staff  with Dorothy (holding the dessert)  Cornelia and Wouter.

Cornelia's boyfriend, Peter took over my apartment with furniture and all. That saved me a lot of trouble. I packed some stuff and took it to my brother Charel and his wife Geretha to keep and gave my old car to my sister. I was left with a suitcase and nothing else -- not even keys. Nothing......I was a free as a bird and it was a nice feeling.



I planned to meet up with Gerhard and Cyril and some other South African friends in
Rio de Janeiro Brazil for the New Year celebration.
After that I would fly on to New York and they would return to Johannesburg.

The last night in Johannesburg I stayed with Cornelia in her house and she took me to the airport the next day. I asked her just to drop me off .I wanted no farewells and goodbyes. By this time I was emotionally drained.
I flew to Cape Town and then on to Rio de Janeiro on Varig Airlines.



I saw Africa's coast disappearing from view out of the airplane's window, and I felt very sad and alone. This was a major step in my life and all I could do was pray that I made the right decision.



Cape Point- South Africa.


Cape to Rio.


Rio de Janeiro- Brazil.

I got to Rio at 10:00 pm on New Years Eve 1983. I had the address of the house in a suburb of Rio de Jainero . I got to the gated community with a armed guard at the gate. He allowed the taxi into the compound after he checked with the owners of the house. I was met and shown to my room by one of the staff  that were expecting me.The house belonged to a friend of Cyril - an ex South Africa as well who  immigrated to Rio and opened Pancake Houses there and did very well. Everybody was out at a New Years Eve party but I was very pleased to be on my own. After being served something to eat I took a shower went  to bed- feeling very alone a sad



It was a beautiful traditional Brazilian U shaped  two story house with a pool in the middle.
It was surrounded by a magnificent garden with  brightly colored parrots and birds in the trees.
Every morning we  had  breakfast on the patio  next to the pool --  and spent the time lazing around the pool because of the heat. We did go around and our hosts showed us Rio and we were treated very well. We never got to bed until the early hours of the morning.




Rio de Janeiro was a beautiful city with many very wealthy and very poor people --  that made it also a very dangerous place.The population was made up  from every color and  creed and they spoke Portuguese .This was a hot place and the people were very sensual and oozed sex. Ipanema Beach was packed with hundreds of  half naked people -- wearing as little as possible.





Ipanema Beach .

We spent five  days there together and then it was time to say goodbye and for me to start my life in America. The last night we were taken to a wonderful restaurant looking over Ipanema Beach.
It was a wonderful evening and the view was magnificent.




Gerhard was not very happy with my decision to leave South Africa and as the time came closer to say goodbye, I could see it was getting to him. We took a walk in the garden and he told me that I was like a brother to him .I was not use to somebody being this open and honest with me and it upset  me  more than I ever expected.Our  host took us all to the airport and I left for New York while the rest boarded the plane for South Africa - taking my heart with them.
I flew on to New York and a new chapter of my life.